This site will be periodically updated with reports and pictures from Bob Glover's and Linda Smith's sojourn to Morocco. Check back often to get the latest news!
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Future of Morocco
Loom Project
Women in Morocco
Tour of Figuig
Winter Update
Season of Joy
Work Highlights in Morocco
First Visitor & Summer Travels
Adventures at Summer Camp in Essaouira
Cross-country Traveling
Life in Figuig
Sand-wich
L'Aid Adha - Holidays in Morocco
Figuig or Bust
Just 84 Cents
Some thoughts about Culture
Visiting Figuig
Eid Holiday
End of Ramadan
The Contents of this webpage are Bob Glover's and do not represent any position of the US Government or the Peace Corps.
Dear Family and Friends,
We are in our last couple days in Morocco and want to share one more memory we will bring with us. There is an on going debate about whether Peace Corps is a development agency or a instrument for cultural exchange. We think, perhaps both to some degree. We leave having made many friends and learned more than we could have anticipated…a humbling and valuable experience. We hope we have left something of value behind as well. The future belongs to the next generation. Here’s a glimpse of that next generation!
- Bob and Linda
Dear Family and Friends,
While in the states Linda happened upon a beautiful , used Schacht BabyWolf Loom, the Cadillac of floor looms made in the U.S. Weavers we work with learned of this loom when they trained on the use of natural dyes. After dreaming and scheming about how to get one of these versatile looms, the Coop decided it was not possible due to cost, shipping, and import fees. Who would have thought that Linda would unexpectedly be going to the U.S. and would encounter the very loom which the Coop had sought? Thanks to the generosity of friends and family we were able to acquire the loom, and cover the cost of transport, training and materials. Also fortuitous is that there is a volunteer in Morocco who was able to train the women how to use it. Now with their new skills, they will create some smaller, more marketable products to complement their expertly woven carpets. Our gratitude to all!
- Bob and Linda
Hmmm...do you think this will fit in my suitcase? what about Barb's car!
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First day of training with visiting weaver and trainer, Briana.
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By day two, ready to try weaving.
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The happy trainees understand the basics and show their sample piece. Tbark llah 3lihum!
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Dear Family and Friends,
Because most of our work has been with women, it is a fitting tribute to share the faces and spirits of the resourceful and courageous women we have come to know. Ironically differences in culture, religion and geography obscure our similarities and common humanity. In Morocco, whether addressing a stranger or friend, one says, “khuya”(my brother) or “khuti”(my sister).
Hopefully, you will find familiarity in these pictures. Their names are Fatima, Khadija, Latifa, Soumia, Biti, Amina, Aziza, Soukayna, Loubna, Fatiha, Saliha, Fadilla, Selma, Jamilla, Nana, Souad, Hadda, Aicha, Yamina, Katou, Karima, Miriam, Khera, Siham, Hind, Ahalem, Besma, Hannan.
We will conclude our work in Morocco at the end of November and will leave with full hearts and many new friends. Hope to see you sometime in 2009. Salam, Linda and Bob
- Bob and Linda
Like women everywhere, the women in Morocco are Granddaughters...
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go to concerts,...
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They are bridesmaids and...
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...they play together.
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Dear Family and Friends,
Spring has sprung and summer is nearly upon us as daily temps inch towards 100. Thankfully evenings still bring some cooler air at least until June we hope. We can also enjoy the Spring sandstorms which are hot winds coming from the Sahara and which are essential for encouraging the pollination of the nearly 200,000 date palms of our oasis.
We hope you enjoy the photos which are a virtual tour of our town, Figuig, at the most Southeastern corner of Morocco, less than 1 Km from Algeria. Our work with local artisan groups is going well and we can soon share with you their website which will be both a catalog of their products and a tool for teaching them product, marketing and computer skills. Wishing you all the very best!
- Bob and Linda
Dear Family and Friends,
Greetings from Figuig. We are busy, happy, and Spring is just around the corner. Two months of updates here -- starting with L’Eid Adha (Abraham’s Sacrafice). We kicked off the New Year with a Natural Dye workshop we planned after a chance meeting in the Middle Atlas with a former Peace Corps Volunteer/ & professional weaver, Gregg. We arranged for him and Amina, his Moroccan counterpart from Sefrou, to do color theory and wool natural dying techniques. This inspired our two artisan groups to share with their peers (125 Figuig weavers) what they had learned We made a trip to colleague Frank’s town, Erfoud, bikes in tow, and to develop a website for the Artisans of Figuig....coming soon, and to be followed by artisan workshops on marketing their hand-made products via the internet, Inchallah (God willing).
- Bob and Linda
Bob's now famous Vegie Tajine kept us warm on the coldest nights
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Hadda, Aicha, Linda, Miriam, Brahim
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Essential for any gathering - tea in the morning and coffee in the afternoon
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After 3 days hard work, showing results and diplomas
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Dear Family and Friends,
We will spare you the 400+shots and send just a few pics from Ryan's visit. He was our first US visitor to Figuig and traveling with him was a great way to spend Thanksgiving. We covered a lot of territory- all kinds of terrain and weather: south to the Sahara; through several palmeries; a stop in Ouarzazate; onto beautiful Dades Gorge;between the High and Middle Atlas; to Roman ruins; finishing in Fez. Nice surprises included a rendezvous with some cycling friends, an unexpected first snow, and staying with several of our Peace Corps friends Frank, Rachel, and Rose, along the way. Warm welcomes greeted Ryan wherever we went, which we needed as the temperatures dropped! Ryan is now nearly an expert on tajines and couscous throughout Morocco. Wishing you the best of the Holiday Seasons and a Peaceful New Year.
- Bob and Linda
Ryan finally gets dad up for sunrise
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Crazy Dutch Cyclists -- Rendezvous in Agdz
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With Prayer Caller atop the Bou Inania Minaret
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Inside Madrasa Bou Inania Most Famous Old University in North Africa
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Dear Family and Friends,
Some of you may wonder what we are doinig in Morocco besides Peace and Friendship and seeing some of the sights. Attached Photos depict some of the highlights of our work with a women's weaving cooperative, nomad families and a community association to help promote the sales of various handmade crafts.
Hope you enjoy.
Happy Thanksgiving and have a piece of turkey for us with lots of stuffing and cranberry relish. Our son Ryan is visiting and we will be traveling the southeron desert and oasis of Morocco this week. Thinking of you and Safe Holiday to all!
- Bob and Linda
Hanging the wool to dry int he garden
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Who let Bob Assembly weaving looms?
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After liftur (breaking the fast) in Ramadan, a birthday cake for Mohamed made by Fatima.
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Linda taking her turn to learn this technique
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First Visitor & Summer Travels
Dear Family and Friends,
The highlight of August was our first visitor – daughter, Jamie! We're hoping son, Ryan, will be the second. Every new place we travel furthers our appreciation for this intriguing beautiful country. Our travels to and from meeting Jamie, included some new stops on the map. Chefchouen, a Rif Mountain village in the north, then coastal Asilah before Linda took off to meet Jamie in Marrakech followed by five days in Essaouira. Bob joined the girls after exploring towns along the Atlantic coast on his own. Our return trip allowed for a brief visit in Casablanca, and Sale, the city across the river from Rabat known for its pottery production. With two work trips in June and July and August travels, we think we found the secret of getting through the Figuig desert summer! Hope you are all well and enjoy sharing our journey with us.
- Bob and Linda
Jamie and Linda with a Water Seller of Essaouira |
One of many outdoor cafes. Fish Tajine anyone?
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Shopping in Morocco always has surprises. Aziz had to dress Bob for the part.
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Beach Sunset in Asilah
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Adventures at Summer Camp in Essaouira
Dear Family and Friends,
We had quite an experience for two weeks at a camp sponsored by a national social services organization. The kids attending demonstrated need, many were orphans, others had either developmental, emotional or financial issues. We lived with 90 campers, ages 6-15 in an elementary school. Tough work. Each group of 10-14 kids had a Moroccan adult counselor who was responsible. Our official role was as English teachers. But our actual roles also included craft instructor, photographer, waiter, lifeguard, and my favorite, kid hugger. Essaouira is so far our favorite place we’ve been in Morocco. Colorful streets, just enough Morocco to have an authentic experience, international mix of tourists, nice cafes, great food, beautiful beach, world class wind surfing. Hotels range from cheap to shabby chic to classy riads. The center of contemporary art. Enjoy! We miss you!
- Bob
Castle ruin which inspired Jimi Hendrix's "Castles Made of Sand" |
Only 10 girl campers and 80 boys. Girls often found hiding out in our classroom (which was also our bedroom) |
Moving into colorful streets of Essaouira |
English class - or was it anatomy or music class? Look closely!
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How do you spell "s-c-o-r-p-i-o-n"?
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Dear Friends and Family,
Sorry its been a while since a visual update. Time moves in rather unique ways for us and we were surprised by the date of our last installment. This is a three month review, but no pictures or words can really describe fully our interesting and challenging life in Figuig. Included are shots of this beautiful oasis we live in, some of our friends, and some of our projects. We traveled for 2 1/2 weeks in June, to a Peace Corps In-service training which allowed us to take a few extra days and to make the most of the 3+ day trip just to get from Figuig to Agadir, on the coast. We stopped on route to visit our first host family from Khemisset, had a couple nights in Marrakesh, and Fes, a week in Agadir, and we tested our endurance climbing Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa, at 4200 meters. Enjoy! We miss you all. Who will be first to visit us?
- Bob and Linda
Side trip to Saidia on the Med, Algeria visible in the distance |
Weekly English class at the Artisana |
Bob "jfefing" the walkway during wool washing |
Remember Marrakesh Express? |
The girls can't get enough of "Rober" (say it with a French Accent) |
Daily bike ride to the "Bir", pronouced "beer" |
Dear Friends,
Long overdue update from us. These photos from our early February work trip to Rabat to help our artisan associations exhibit and sell their products. We squeezed in a little site seeing. Contrasting our big city venture was our March trip 50K outside Figuig to visit several nomad families. They raise and graze sheep, goats, cows and survive the harsh desert life. They were welcoming and generous. Through their continual feeding of us, we experienced fresh goat products...milk, buttermilk, several cheeses, and of course the goat meat with the couscous meal. The purpose of the trip was for photodocumenting the making of baskets which we are working a project to help market and sell. You will also find pictures of our host family, our exciting move in day and new house and various views of our beautiful little oasis town. We miss everyone. Look forward to hearing from you.
Peace, Linda and Bob
Lalowi Musicians |
Repairing the Dryer |
Peace Corps Office in Rabat |
Hafida with artisan product display |
Bob's Birthday - First Attempt at Pizza |
Cooking Couscous with Nomads |
Greetings from Figuig,
Now we know why they call it a sand - wich.
We are being hammerd by Al Ajaj -- tranlate as the worst possible sand-storm you can ever imagine. We are into hour 40 and they say it may last until Saturday. It's kind of like a Hurricaine around Cat I without the rain -- instead we get blowing sand. Indeed, the sand blows into evey part of you and into the house as well.
We both said we wanted to experience everything that Figuig has to offer -- so, hopefully, this is the last passage of winter before we can safely make our way into spring.
Oddly, Figuigis are quite happy about being hammered by Al Ajaj -- as it is the essential way for the Date palms to pollinate among themselves. Otherwise, various Figuigis or even Peace Corps volunteers would have to kick off their shoes and scale up those tall palms to hand deliver the pollen. We may still need to do that. We have four date palms -- two males and two females. So, we hope all will work itself out during this storm. Without this there will be no dates come October and it is the number one money maker in this economy.
See the pics below -- as we insanely ventured out into the storm -- where at city hall we found several trees (not palms, but evergreens that the French planted about 100 years ago) that were completed uprooted -- just like Isabelle in Larchmont. The palms seem to love the wind as they just sway ever which way the gusts blow!
If the winds subside we plan to spend Sunday on an outing to the desert to visit a nomad family -- still living in tents -- who make baskets from Helfa (natural desert grass and palm leaves). We hope this will be an interesting activity that we could fit into a fair trade initiative. We will send pics if all goes well.
Otherwise, Have a nice weekend. Think of us eating goat and drinking very sweet tea in the Sahara.
Bob and Linda
A Moroccan Sandstorm |
Trying to avoid getting covered in sand |
L'Aid Adha - Holidays in Morocco
Dear Friends,
Here are some photos from the holidays. View with caution as several photos depict the Islamic tradition of Gorging the sheep. This year the most important Islamic holiday coincided with the Christmas and New Year Holiday and Hannekah. For muslims L'Aid Adha commemorates the history of Abraham and how God asked him to make a tremendous sacrifice and then substitute a sheep in place of his son. Just in Morocco 6 million sheep were slaughtered in the both the religious and cultural tradition of Abraham on the morning of Dec 31st. There are very specific practices and steps that each family follows in preparing the slaughter and in how to handle the various parts of the animal. Nothing is wasted. Khera. The mother of our house has already processed the two sheeps' hair into wool and today with her friend (see the photo example of weaving machine). -Bob and Linda
View over the Oasis |
Weaving the Wool into a Baby Blanket, Due in February |
Fatima Readies the Kabobs |
A Typical Street and Early Morning Walk |
Christmas Surprise Cake Made By Khera, Fatima's Grandmother |
Linda, in our Bedroom, Preparing for Arabic Tutoring |
(note: these pictures were taken before the last message, and show the events from when Bob and Linda left their first host family through their language training until their final arrival in Figuig)
Here are photos are from Khemiset where we lived with our host family, Driss and Meriem, their 3 girls: Hind, Ah'Lem, and Bsema, Grandma Heja, their nephew Ab'Kareem. Also we spent our last week of training freezing in Immozer, a beautiful small town in the Atlas mountains; then we greaduated from training in Fes with a wonderful event at an old hotel with all our friends; families and great Andalusian music. Afte that we headed to Figuig.
All the best and thanks for your encouraging notes and emails.
- Bob and Linda.
View from our window in Auberge at the Azrou |
Thanksgiving Dinner - Our Moroccan Staff |
Bob, Amina (language teacher), Linda at Fes Hotel for Graduation |
Traditional Andalusian Music |
Coffee Vendors in Oujda, the Photo in the backgound shows the Father and Son at the Athens GAmes, signed by Grenouj hero of Morocco winning "gold medals in middle distances" |
Figuig Palm Trees looking south towards Algeria |
Hope all is well as you head into the holiday home stretch
We are still in Figuig - an Oasis - in the high desert of the Sahara. It is beautiful but freezing cold at night. As soon as the sun starts to set around 4:00 the temp drops quickly.
This is another huge transition in that for a variety of reasons the PC had to change our host family here. We love Figuig and the people. We both really like it and from initial impressions there are tons of potential work partners for us. The language obstacles continue to be huge as Arabic, unlike French or Spanish, does not have recognizeable constructs of words and phrases for us, and being 50+ it is a challenge having to form sounds and words in our mouth for so long, so it is hard to retrain our muscles. Arabic has several really tough sounds such as q - deep in the throat q, the big HA - big H in the throat sound, and the gutteral KH or X - like LoCH Ness.
We have mastered survival arabic and are now trying to communicate. One thing that is really interesting is how some Moroccans try to and can actually understand our very badly pronounced and poorly constructed arabic phrases while there are others - thankfully just a few - who look at us like we are martians. I suppose it is the same in the states for people doing ESL for the first time in the states.
We spent about 7 weeks with the likes of 20 Ryan and Jamies (we love our kids but spending days; weeks and even working with all of them week after week wore us out a bit). This all came to a head last week when all 50 of the new PCVs congregated at Immouzer and PC split us up for a week and we each had to sleep in a small building (like youth hostel) with 16 of them. Yikes we are glad that is over.
You cannot believe how beautiful this area of Figuig is. We both always thought it would be great to live in a small town and be in the high desert some day. So, here we are getting to do that, promoting peace and friendship, saying Salam Wallikum,learning a new language (laterI willwork on improving my french), and all our expenses are covered. There is one good local hotel with a pool and an outdoor Cafe that overlooks the valley towards Algeria between two mountains, and just below is the largest part of the Figuig Oasis - called Zenaga. It is one of the oldest settlements and it is where many Jews lived for nearly 900 hundred years. Most left when Israel was established 50+ years ago. We are seeking to find the local historian and hope to learn and write more about this soon.
Recently I read in the French paper here a story by Richard Nye (I think he was one of Clintons deputy defense guys and is now at Harvard) who wrote an editorial about Iraq and he pointed out how th e US is spending more than 500 times on defense then it does on the combined total of PC, USAID, foreign aid (non-military), and add in the military amount spent of foreign exchange and training other armies as in the goodwill category.
We hope we can do our part of balance this out all in the name of Peace and Friendship.
For just 84 cents you can send us a note or card to
B.P. 27
61000 Figuig Morocco
All the best,
Bob and Linda
These last two weeks have been really tough.
Last week were in Immouzer a beautiful small town in the Middle Atlas mountains, but it was freezing; we were reunited with the other 25 youth development volunteers (plus our 25 small biz volunteers).
Friday we were in Fes which is the original capital of Morroco and quite an historical town. We had the US Ambassador and the Fes Governor there to make the official swearing in as PC volunteers. Our host family from Khemisset travelled over two hours by bus to celebrate with us. We were really touched by their coming to Fes. We will get some pics out soon.
Living deeply in a culture as we are not in the major cities but we are living and working with low income families - but it is so different from what low income is like in the US.
I think the pictures tell a better story and we will continue to use them to share some of our experiences.
Generally the biggest difference is that their focus is on having lunch together; having tea together; working together to improve the community rather than to advance ones own fortunes.
We are now in Figuig - hopefully our home for the next 2 years.
We are suppose to live with a family for 2 more months to bolster our language and cultural understanding.
Making cultural adjustments in a language in which we only have survival skills is extremely exhausting.
We now understand enough language to get us in a lot of trouble in that we understand about half of what is said - yet we are not sure which half.
We love Figuig, it is a wonderful small town located in an Oasis in the high desert on the edge of the Sahara.
Winter is rolling in so it is generally sunny and beautiful during the day and freezing cold at night. Few homes or businesses have any heat. No money for that.
Our job now is to smile, meet people; and learn more Arabic for the next 2 months. I truly love the idea of walking around all day saying Salam Walikum - peace be with you. We are the only Americans who have lived in this town in over 6 years ago.
We have many funny stories that involve meeting Figuigs version of Paul Fraim; Bobby Scott and Thelma Drake.
When we head out each day with a plan we rarely make it to our destination. We usually meet someone who then invites for tea and that takes 1-2 hours; then its time for lunch, etc.
Our primary job is to integrate into the community and not to do anything for several months until we really know who are the key players and what kind of technical assistance will fit with their needs that can be sustainable after we leave.
Bob and Linda
Here are a few photos from our site visit to Figuig which will be our home for the next two years starting after Thanksgiving. Figuig, located in the most southeastern corner of Morocco. The border with Algeria is closed due to politics over the Sahara. Figuig, is an oasis, with over 200,000 palm trees, high desert surrounded by rockie mountains and on 3 sides by Algeria. Once in the 1960's and again in the mid-1970's the Moroccans and Algerians have fought in the town. Today, Figuig is a very safe community of about 5,000+. There are few cars and everyone rides a bicycle--at least when it's not 130 degrees. So we are looking forward to meeting all of the Figuigians soon. Will be in touch - Linda and Bob
Moroccan Sunset |
Bob standing in front of the bus from Oujda to Figuig |
Bob and Linda's neighborhood in Figuig |
From Right of Bob: Ibrahim (Volunteer Head of Red Crescent), Joseph (farmer), Tayb (Volunteer Head of Theater Club), and Mustafa (Joseph's Father at their Farm) |
Pit for cooking the sheep |
One of the community centers Bob and Linda will be working at. |
After 30 days of fasting Ramadan ends with the Holiday Eid. Moroccans mark this by participating in large group prayers in large open spaces -- especially early in the morning. Then, the rest of the day is spent visiting family and frinds. Linda and I spent the Eid holiday travelling to the country side south of Khemisset to the family farm of Omar and his wife Khadija. Omar is the cousin of Driss who is the father of the family we lived with in Khemisset throughout Ramadan. This farm is huge -- hundreds of acres with olive trees, 60 sheep, 8 turkeys, 5 cows, 6 mules, lots of chickens and roosters and one dog. Upon arrival we had tea with fresh bread and homemade honey. For lunch we started with a large dish of couscous with chicken and veggies. This was followed by either otter or beaver (Omar had shot it that morning) sometherd by onions and grapes. -Bob and Linda
Henna on Linda's Hands |
Bob and Linda's family (from left): Hind, Grandma, Omar and his son, Hakim |
The entire family |
Bob rides Mr. Ed |
Getting water from the well |
Mr. Ed and Wilbur, with a Mosque in the distance |
October 23rd is the last day of Ramadan. Schools are closed until the 26th. Eid, the holiday, is when families will visit one another and wea their new jellabas and enjoy lots of good food. We will be travelling to the country side to visit the Berber side of our host family. Here are a few shots of our host family in Khemisset. The neigborhood we live in was a battleground in WWII. Today (October 22) we picked olives from the families 9 trees. Mabruk Eid (Happy End of Ramadan Holiday) - Bob and Linda
Linda with Hind, Besema, and Ahlem |
(from left) Abcreme, Meriem, Driss, Hint, Bob with Besema, and Ahlem |
Sunday hike around Azrou |
Overlooking Azrou Mosque |
Linda and friends in their new jellabas for the end of Ramadan |
Read Bob's Farewell Speech at the Pagoda Restaurant in Downtown Norfolk
Resolving Conflicts | Building Relationships | Empowering People